Oaky Dokey in Rochester: The PGA, Oak Hill CC, May 18-21, 2023
While no one can dispute Oak Hill's bona fides for hosting a major, I was less certain that Rochester could offer the same promise as a wine destination. Yes, optimism is warranted anytime a venue boasts proximity to a significant wine-producing area (duh, The Finger Lakes). But still, was there any chance we'd see some Kodak Moments emerging from our snapshots of restaurant wine lists?
Look, Rochester wouldn't have turned out to be the first smallish city I've covered that lacks excitement in its wine game. Fortunately, if you're converging on the PGA at Oak Hill you have some options.
Restaurants
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First up if you can believe it is a restaurant belonging to a grocery chain. Not just any grocery chain, mind you, but Wegman's. Next Door by Wegman's has a legit list and while prices are kind of screwy (some low, some grossly high), it boasts one of the biggest value plays we've ever seen. Assuming it's not a typo and the wine is actually available, it's selling at about an 80% discount below retail. It's not cheap in absolute terms, but still, a deal is a deal. Catch it if you can or before I do. The rest is solid if kind of middle of the plate.
Sometimes a list conveys a spark of imagination and even a sense of humor that let you know right away the parties responsible love wine. Such is the case as Avvino. "More skin contact than your jr. prom" reads the heading for pink and orange wines. Expertly curated, entirely playful, and proof you don't need 300 wines to create genuine interest and excitement. Prices are fair and you'll find a little bit of everything here.
Horizons features over 250 wines. It also has nice regional diversity even if some of the choices are a tad mundane. We appreciate that they lead off with a selection of New York State wines, both red and white. But the strength is clearly in California reds, including for example a 7-bottle vertical of Opus. If you want to go big in Napa during your time in Rochester, this looks like the place.
Reverlry and Max Chophouse seem to get some local cred, but they don't post their lists. If you can't see 'em, you can't rate 'em. I think anyone who sells a cowboy ribeye for $140 can figure out a way to get their wine list online, but this is just a pet peeve of mine.
Retail
Based on what's visible online, Pinnacle seems to be the pick of the Rochester retail litter. There’s plenty of diversity, a natural wine category, and they do a nice job in the Old World, especially Bordeaux and Burgundy. Would like to see a little more oomph on the high end but it’s probably what the market will support.
