To The Lighthouse: RBC Heritage, April 17-20, 2025
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I haven’t been to Hilton Head in over 20 years so this is a shot in the dark. If you want to offer a strong wine program in a destination with significant seasonal peaks you need the financial strength to “weather” the off-season, hopefully through a dedicated core of locals. Otherwise, what you’re likely to find on wine lists and in stores, as I did, is the all too predictable and deflating “usual suspects.”
But not to worry, there’s a king of the hill here and it’s the first and maybe only stop if you want a world-class experience.
Charlie’s L’Etoile Verte has a great list, especially when its “Reserve List” is taken into account. The core list is good if not inspired and easily eclipses anything else on the Island. I’m not 100% sure, but it seems the Reserve List consists of “bin ends” or last bottles in inventory and it’s the star of the show. Some truly high- end verticals like Shafer Hillside and a chorus line of Guigal La La’s, for example. Big time presence in Bordeaux and generally fair prices to boot. It’s hard to tell online what’s really going on, with the whole Reserve List concept, but this is the place to go first.
Links, the grill option at Sea Pines Resort, is recognized by the Wine Spectator, but in keeping with my overall observation, has decent variety but no real excitement and it’s very expensive for the few high end options, failing the Opus One Test at $975 for the 2018 vintage.
Michael Anthony’s bills itself as the premiere culinary destination on Hilton Head, including a market and casual trattoria. If the online wine list is representative, it’s smaller than I would have guessed and somewhat predictable but has a few surprises that would work in a pinch. Prices are good. On my last virtual visit there was a reserve list. Couldn’t find it this time, generally not.a good sign.
The regular wine list visible online at Red Fish is so uninspired I’d be asking for corkage before I sat down. Fortunately, that’s where their wine-friendly mentality kicks in. Corkage is readily embraced on the list ($25) and they have a companion wine market where you can buy and drink on premise for a $10 upcharge. The market claims to have 1000 bottles and if so, I’m going to assume there’s something more than meets the eye here.
Ombra has a pretty good Italian red selection, especially strong in Tuscany, including both Brunello and Super Tuscans. Unfortunately it’s somewhat overpriced and whites are virtually non-existent.
Retail
Rollers, particularly the Palmetto Bay store, is a totally respectable outlet and likely will fit the bill for stocking a rental. Reds are much stronger than whites, There aren’t many surprises in terms of creativity but if you’re content with well-known names you’ll be happy in the mode of a Total Wine.
