Trompe L’Oeil in Palm Beach: The (Honda)/Cognizant Classic, PGA Resort Champions Course, February 27-March 2, 2025
I confess I was a little disappointed by the number of restaurants that didn’t post their wine lists in the Palm Beach area. It left me wondering why, as if the regulars in this playground for multi-millionaires already have their standing tables reserved and there’s no need for restaurants to advertise to the public.
Restaurants
Fortunately for us, they let it all hang out at La Sirena. Maybe they’re just the acknowledged best in town and make their list available as an intimidation factor for the rest of the field. Yes, they have an awesome collection, but I love it when a world-class wine list goes out of its way to offer lower-priced options too. It shows me the establishment has a commitment to making wine more accessible and to viewing it as an integral part of any good meal. Here there are over 100 wines priced $50 or less in two lists, one for the world at large and the other specific to Italian reds. If I were being hyper-critical, I could say their coverage outside of Italy, Bordeaux and California cab/meritage is a little uninspired, like not one chenin blanc, for example. But in Italy and their other regions of strength it’s nothing short of magnificent. The Tuscany section goes on forever. There are small gaps in some off-beat parts of Italy, but I’m being churlish. I’d be happy to fill them in on what’s missing in exchange for a free meal. Note they publish the 96-page list in ebook form in two parts online. It’s a good read.
Flagler Steakhouse at the Breakers is the Joe Frazier to La Sirena’s Ali. Depending on what you’re looking for, it counterpunches successfully in France and holds its own in California. Based on the hotel’s reputation alone, I was expecting it to be overpriced, and unfortunately it is. You have to squint hard to find anything under $150 a bottle, but still, it’s a good list with a lot of exciting wines if you’re on a dowager’s expense account.
I don’t know why but a week before the 2025 Tournament Buonasera has no website. It’s still kicking as far as I know so the following is based on previous year’s coverage. The list at Buonasera not surprisingly tilts heavily to Italy and it offers excellent varietal coverage of the country at mostly reasonable prices. For example, you’ll find more aglianico here than you will at La Sirena, and also wines from both Valle d’Aosta and Puglia, so good for them. Reasonable California red wine options can be found, but except for a few champagnes, only one wine on the entire list comes from France-a 2003 Chateau Gloria. Clearly, Francophiles need not apply.
City Cellar Wine Bar and Grill has a compact but nicely diversified list and options in all price ranges. If you are celebrating, there are small verticals of Shafer Hillside Select or Insignia and a few high-end Bordeaux and Super Tuscans to tempt you. Over-reliant in our opinion on “brands,” but steer away from them and you’ll be fine.
The list at EVO (short for evolution) is not particularly evolved but it’s reasonably broad and well-priced for the most part. Would like to see a little more daring approach given the concept. A generous corkage bottle is offered, $35 for the first bottle which is waived if you purchase another one off the list.
No-see-ums. You can get 8 oz. of caviar for $1025 at Café L’Europe, but you can’t see the 800 bottle wine list. Good news is you can bring your own for a mere $100 corkage fee, but you’ll have to call the restaurant to make sure they don’t already have it. Renato’s at least offers a glimpse, but what about Café Boulud, Buccan, or Parisian Wine Bar? Sorry, not happening.
Retail
Hamptons Palm Beach hopefully has more inventory than meets the eye. Their website has an attractive assortment of wine from around the world and some great high-end bottles. However, when you search for say, cabernet sauvignon, it appears they have more than 300 in stock but they only show about 70 online. I’m giving them the benefit of a doubt because they say they have “extensive experience with jet, yacht and estate provisioning,” and I’m really picky about what wines I stock on my yacht.
Virginia Philip Wine Spirits and Academy has a nicely balanced selection of approximately 1000 wines and the distinction of being operated by one of the most decorated sommeliers in the US. There probably aren’t many people who know more about wine than Virginia in all of the Southeast, let alone Palm Beach, so you’re in good hands.
It doesn’t really count because it’s more than an hour south, but by chance I stumbled into one of the world’s great wine stores located in Fort Lauderdale. It’s called Wine Watch and they will ship to Palm Beach or anywhere else. Take my word for it-if you get bored watching golf take a trip down and check it out. If Palm Beach has less than meets the eye, this place has a whole lot more.
