Maui Wine Wowie! The Sentry, Kapalua Plantation Course, January 4-7, 2024
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Perception? Wine on Maui is super expensive and predictable. Reality? There are several delightful restaurant lists that tend to be a little expensive but put a lot of other islands to shame in both diversity and price. If you happen to be on Maui for the rebranded Sentry Tournament, you can drink well with a minimum of effort. Of special note, some of our past recommendations were affected by the devastating Lahaina wildfires and may not be open yet or at all. The beloved Lahaina Grill burned to the ground. We are reporting what we learn from the web as of 1/1/2024 and hope for the best. Support them if you can.
Restaurants
Merriman’s is king of the hill. A fabulous and diverse list full of great wines and multiple surprises. Strength in all traditional regions and beautifully counterpointed. For every bottle of DRC (2010 La Tache @ $10,560) there are a dozen exciting global options under $100. You’d never know you were on a remote island and I’m not sure how they do it. 2019 Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault costs less on the list than it does at Acker Merrill retail in New York. All this and $35 corkage on the first bottle. That’s what I call island living.
Mala Tavern (Lahaina) plans on reopening as soon as possible in 2024. Hopefully they aren’t starting the wine program from scratch in the aftermath of the fire. The previously published list is quite appealing, though modest compared to Merriman’s. It’s well curated and cheerfully annotated with tasting notes. Features some off-the-beaten-path warm weather options like the (red) Elena Walch Schiava for $50. Drink it chilled like they suggest!
Matteo’s Osteria features an extensive vinous tour of Italy with fill-ins from the West Coast if you aren’t in the mood for amore. The Italian whites are particularly interesting while the reds become more predictable. For example, I was excited to see a timorasso from Piedmont (this white grape is enjoying a sommelier glam-up in NY right now) Of all the Maui lists I encountered this one is the most expensive relatively speaking, even taking an island premium into account. A little knowledge of Italian wine would be helpful going in here to maximize your quality/price ratio.
Nick’s Fishmarket is oddly more stacked in reds than whites. The California cab and Bordeaux selections are excellent and if anything, they are more judicious about quality in Italy than even Matteo’s. Perhaps the few “turf” offerings are particularly popular vs the surf. But I largely ignore rules about pairing seafood with reds and so should you if you go here.
Retail
No retailer posts an inventory on the Island. Wailea Wine indicates they carriy a roster of some very high end producers like Raveneau, Sine Qua Non, and Harlan, so that would be my first stop. According to their website, Tamura’s has one of the largest selections in the State, competitive prices, and has been voted best wine store for more than a decade. If like me you’re scouting from afar, I guess you’ll have to take their word for it.
