Wacky for Wine in Waikiki: The Sony Open in Hawaii, Wai’alae Country Club, January 11-14, 2024
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After just covering Maui for the Sentry TOC I reset my expectations to the upside for Oahu and the Sony Open in Honolulu. I was not disappointed. There is no shortage of great options, although for the most part they are expensive and presented in formal fine dining settings.
La Vie might have the best published list in Honolulu. The French section is outstanding from Cahors ($54) to DRC La Tache ($11000). I particularly like the evident curation you see in a region like the Northern Rhone, where they offer recognized masters like Clape, Jamet, and Chave, but every other choice is high quality and judicious. Along with the treasures, there’s a tremendous selection of New and Old World options under $200 if you don’t feel like emptying the piggybank. Link to Wine List
We don’t usually rate the big steakhouse chains, but Stripsteak by Michael Mina has enough breadth and depth to rise above the chain formula. The world’s best wines are mostly represented and while prices are high, they aren’t astronomical for the genre. No matter what the budget, I always judge a restaurant by what they have available under $100. Here there are at least a few thoughtful choices in the more affordable bucket. I don’t understand the concept behind the short list of seemingly random “Red Wines of Consequence” that appears on page 32 of the list, but I’ll cut them some slack. Link to Wine List
Merriman’s list at a mere 15 pages is a slacker compared to their Maui outlet, but there is enough variety and high-end options to get the job done. Strongest in West Coast reds. Link to Wine List
The different wine regions on Mugen’s list are adorned with some of the clearest, most useful maps I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, they’re better than the list itself, which is unaccountably studded with trophy wines and not much else if that’s your thing. For example, the Bordeaux selection contains nothing but first growths. Clearly this is a spot where you have to pay to play. I’ve never seen Chateau D’Esclans Rose “Garrus” but you can be pretty sure I won’t be paying $251 for it either. Note: on my virtual visit on 1/7/2024 the wine list had been removed from the website. I found a link to it by googling it separately and while it might be out-of-date, I’m assuming it’s roughly the same. Link to Wine List
Il Lupino Italian restaurant and wine bar seemingly has something for everyone. Big by-the-glass program, multiple formats, and a very broad if not particularly inspired Italian collection, with the exception perhaps of an outstanding Produttori di Barbaresco assortment and a five vintage vertical of Masseto, which we can’t afford but wish we could. Oddly, the California section is even better, so your options here are not constrained. Link to Wine List
Island Vintage Wine Bar has a diverse, budget-friendly selection of wines from around the world. A good place to pre-game if you’re on your way to any of the radically more expensive options above for dinner. Link to Wine List
No See Ums:
The Wine Spectator award-winning wine program at La Mer isn’t available online. Michel’s consults with no fewer than “three local Master Sommeliers” but apparently, they don’t want to be identified or post their list for public consumption.
Like Maui, there isn’t a single retailer’s inventory you can peruse online so the best bet is to ask around. Trust me, you don’t want to rely on google reviews in this category.
