Our “Cup” Runneth Over in Atlanta: The Tour Championship, East Lake Golf Club, August 29-September 21, 2024
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It’s fitting for our mission that the culmination of the PGA Tour and FedEx Cup seasons happens in Atlanta.
I regard wine culture as an important mark of a civilized city. Atlanta is clearly stacked, both at retail and in its restaurants. When you spend as much time as I do looking for/at online wine inventories, it’s a pleasure to see so many places that proudly display what they have available. It may also be an indicator of healthy competition across the market. If you’ve got it, flaunt it, baby. Like the Fed Ex purse, it’s an embarrassment of riches. Good on you, Atlanta.
With this much to write about, I’m going to have to be somewhat economical in my descriptions. And in keeping with the tournament payouts I’ll focus on the top wines available. The good news is that since East Lake is the permanent home of the Tour Championship, I can always beef it up next year.
At retail:
Tower Beer Wine and Spirits has a fine selection of high-end wines in most major regions. Go high/low in Italy with Masseto ’18 and La Ragnaie Brunello ’16 just as an example.
Perrines Wine Shop features a well-curated selection brimming with top names like Clos Rougeard, Chave, and even DRC. Strong across the board if a slightly smaller assortment than the megastores you’d expect to stock these iconic wines. Curiously weak in Bordeaux unless I messed up the robust search filters.
The game is afoot at Sherlock’s, which should be the first stop for any Bordeaux lovers in the crowd. First growths abound, some with considerable bottle age, and other classic regions are well represented. Oddly, there isn’t much excitement under $50 where the offers become somewhat pedestrian.
Restaurants:
Two themes stuck out to me when reviewing the following excellent lists. Atlanta seems to love bubbles and California cab. Most of the restaurant lists surveyed here overdeliver in those categories in addition to whatever other ideas prevail. There is a paucity of innovation in Burgundy and Italy (unless otherwise noted) and I fear this is a result of what’s available in the market and the difficulty of extending to embrace non-mainstream distributors. See St. Cecelia below for an indication of what’s possible.
Aria has an excellent geographically diverse list with a sense of fun, including a category called “I do not fit into a tidy box.” Lots of sparkling wines if you hanker for bubbles. Something for everyone here even if a little weak in Bordeaux.
Bacchanalia certainly sports a name suggesting a strong wine game and it does not disappoint. Massive offers in New World pinot, Burgundy, and cabs. Other areas are generally not so robust, but you won’t have any trouble finding something good.
Bones steakhouse sounds like where I’d go with a bunch of golfing buddies. I lost count after about 150 California cabs. One of the biggest selection of grenache-based wines I’ve ever seen on a list. You have to assume this is all about the “meats,” and the list has been structured to make sure no one ordering a slab of beef has anything to complain about.
Canoe has a compact but strong list that covers all the bases and throws in more than a surprise or two. Even I had to look up a wine from the Upper Hiawassee Highlands, which turns out to be an AVA in North Georgia and a few counties in North Carolina. Would probably need to taste it before pulling the trigger. Another big batch of Cali cabs if so inclined. Reasonable prices add to the appeal.
La Grotta unsurprisingly focuses on Italy with a big blast of Tuscany right out of the gate. Deep in Super Tuscans with coverage all over the Boot. The list continues to showcase major regions across the globe with especially strong presence in California cab/blends and mature Bordeaux. If I had a nit, I’d say they lean a bit towards established, maybe predictable producers in the core Italian regions of Tuscany and Piedmont. But I’m sorely tempted by some of the ’85 and ’90 Bordeaux at less than nosebleed prices.
Atlas sits inside the St. Regis and in keeping with its well-heeled clientele, offers an outstanding list at stratospheric prices. They have a stated philosophy of building portfolios around specific high-end producers. Want to choose from 15 vintages of Opus One, nine from Vega-Sicilia Unico, or seven different cuvees from William Selyem? This is your place.
White Oak Kitchen reimagines southern food and the wine list does a decent job of keeping up with that intent. It’s not as adventurous as I might like but it’s plenty broad and deep and offers many opportunities to try something you might not have had before under $75. I’m especially impressed by the fact that nothing on the red Burgundy or Bordeaux list was more recent than 2016. I really hope this reflects a conscious choice to offer bottles that are more ready to drink. Big array of sparkling wines.
St. Cecilia makes some bold promises about their commitment to “purity and honest character” in the wines they choose. I think for the most part they succeed. A good tell is what they do with the Loire Valley, both red and white. Three muscadets? I’m in. Finally, someone in Atlanta ventures off the grid to hand-select their Nebbiolo wines. The presence of Guilia Negri Barolo is evidence enough of what I’m talking about. I could be happy in any number of restaurants in this town, but I might start here.
Miller Union neatly fits the category of smaller, well-curated lists, with a focus on France, Italy and Spain. Not recommended for those whose marching orders are New World at any cost. Prices are a little high for my taste.
