Slam dunk in Denver. The BMW Championship, Castle Pines Golf Club, August 22-25, 2024
I apologize in advance ‘cause this is my first “visit” to Denver and I was pressed for time. I actually started the trip in Castle Pines itself, which is about 40 minutes south of Denver proper. Not much to see there because despite a lot of restaurants, it seems like a tourist trap devoid of any meaningful wine presence. Fortunately Denver itself is brimming with good options, so hopefully you’ll be staying or visiting downtown when not on the golf course.
Restaurants
The flat out best list I found in the City is at Matsuhisa.. It’s a fantastic, world-class list and Burgundy is the star in both red and white. I’ve always matched sushi with Burgundy myself and it’s nice to see that so vividly confirmed in this outstanding-looking, high end Japanese restaurant. Oh yeah Champagne too.
In close pursuit is the terrific list at Beckon. Really shines across the board with another beautiful Burgundy selection. Very nice.
Tavernetta’s Italian list is terrific, boasting carefully curated selections from most major Italian regions, ordered by price. Ok, it’s a little expensive but the few options under $75 are hardly throwaways and portray a desire to give everyone a chance to drink something good regardless of budget. I like the thoughtful arrangement by sub-zones in Piedmont and Tuscany. Unless I missed it, the only non-Italian wines are the buckets of quality Champagne. Well done here.
i’m assuming Noble Riot is a pun on Noble Rot but there’s nothing rotten about this funky and inspired list full of cool wines from around the world. It’s not for the faint of heart given that for the most part the selections are somm darlings vs. stuff you might otherwise know. Yet it’s the kind of list where you can really have some fun and they claim help is readily at hand. Prices are good and you cam buy any wine from the list to take out for 33% off.
If anything the small list at Potager is more aggressively weird than Noble Riot. Here’s a place to take a walk on the wild side.
Pasta is the focus at Restaurant Olivia and while the list leans Italian, it’s strong across the board. Organized by grape, it’s easy and fun to peruse with curated coverage through most of Italy. The beverage team clearly left its heart in Piedmont cause the nebbiolo section is the star of the show.
What’s this, another fun Italian list at Spuntino? Yep, the short, two-page list has great prices and the menu holds the honor as the only Italian/Southern Indian cuisine I’ve ever encountered (e.g. Malai Kofta Gnocchi).
The somewhat clumsily named Adventure/Decanted has a very good list that will perhaps offer comfort to less experienced drinkers, that is, you’ll find a lot of familiar names at somewhat inflated prices. Leoville-Poyferre ‘09 at $1000 is just silly, for example, the equivalent of a sucker pin. But there are plenty of interesting options under $100 too so it kind of balances out.
Retail
Denver Wine Merchants doesn’t have the most extensive selection but there’s plenty of good stuff to make a visit worthwhile.
Mondo Vino does a really good job on reds, whites not so much. Some very exciting high end reds if you feel like splurging.
Molly’s Spirits does a nice job with Champagne and Italian reds, excitement somewhat limited elsewhere.
